Fashion

「妳的初戀,應該要是妳自己」:透過刺繡與女性對話的藝術家 Sophie King

有些人穿起這些時尚品牌以示支持他們的主張,更有一群創作者汲取了跨界的靈感,開始使用時尚為他們的顏料,彩繪出自己的獨特觀點,而來自英國的藝術家 Sophie King 則是將自己的思緒彙整進每一針刺繡之中,讓她飛舞的創意停歇於服裝之上。

 

藝術家們走入時尚領域,並以多元媒材表達自身主張或反思,是這一兩年來備受矚目的跨界對話。不論是 Christian Dior 現任創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 在 2017 春夏系列當中引用了小說家 Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie 的女權主義演說標題「We Should All Be Feminists」,或是 Alessandro Michele 在 Gucci 2017 秋冬系列當中將藝術家 Coco Capitán 發人省思的歪扭手寫標語印在 T-shirt 上,都是不同的創作型態邁入時尚的突破之舉。

族繁不及備載的眾多時尚藝術跨界表達,鼓舞著當代年輕人講述自己的立場。有些人穿起這些時尚品牌以示支持他們的主張,更有一群創作者汲取了跨界的靈感,開始使用時尚為他們的顏料,彩繪出自己的獨特觀點,而來自英國的藝術家 Sophie King 則是將自己的思緒彙整進每一針刺繡之中,讓她飛舞的創意停歇於服裝之上。

 

Check out my massive embroidery hoop 💍

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

 

 

 

早期創作,以美漫風格手繡亮片揭露次文化

這一位擁有四萬多名追蹤者的藝術家,喜愛以刺繡揭露自己對於若干議題的關注。在 Sophie King 較為早期的創作當中,她經常使用帶有普普及美漫風格的手繡亮片布標,來呈現出她帶有次文化叛逆感的大膽主張,露骨的主題環繞在刺青、性、毒品以及彩妝之上。

 

 

情愛主題,開始融入細膩刺繡

逐漸地,Sophie King 將一些較細膩的刺繡元素結合到她的亮片布標之上,主題也開始轉向更加觀察入微的愛情內容。寫著「Sad Songs」的黑膠大碟、一包以「心碎能殺死人」命名的菸、以及象徵熱烈愛情的鮮紅玫瑰,都刻畫著 Sophie King 眼中愛情美好與傷痛的一體兩面。

🌹

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

 

 

渴望改寫文化中對女性的不平,而開啟與女孩們的對話

彷彿是愛情的傷痛帶給 Sophie King 成長一般,她的目光逐漸轉移到女性對自己的觀點與意見。再一次專訪中,年僅 26 歲的 Sophie King 說道:「在試著理解為什麼女性與男人的關係總是很糟的時候,我發現『指責受害者 (victim blaming)』的狀態不僅存在於性騷擾事件。那幾乎是一個更廣的文化 ── 當被男人錯待時,女性總是那個受到指責的角色。」這樣的發現,讓 Sophie King 忍不住想對眾多的女性說話,因此她以刺繡寫下了「別再為了男人的問題責怪女人 (Stop blaming women for men’s inadequacies.)」一句話。

另一方面,Sophie King 也想與女孩腦中不實際的粉紅泡泡對話,「壞男孩」這樣的角色被 Sophie King 重新詮釋,她想讓女孩們知道,「壞男孩」的行為不該被浪漫化、被合理化。

她描述自己的刺繡作品「你不是個壞男孩,你只是個壞人 (You’re not a bad boy, you’re just a bad person.)」,是她為女孩們敲碎「壞男孩」夢境的一擊。Sophie King 說道:「無法讓男人有責任感,往往讓我們感到挫折。壞男孩總是被浪漫化,並被描繪成一種雖然糟糕卻很感性的人,好像這樣可以抵銷他們的錯誤。但是現實是,這些壞男孩通常就只是壞人而已。」

 

 

「你不是個壞男孩,你只是個壞人」

Stop romanticising the bad boy trope 🗡 Top now available!

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

These hand embroidered t shirts are available in store 🖤 (link in bio) 🌹 Stop romanticising the "bad boy". "Bad boys" are often portrayed as troubled but with a hidden sensitive side, that's supposed to redeem them. This misleads women to deny, minimize and justify the bad actions of men because they're still a "good person deep down", that they "don't really mean it" and they're "not all bad". The myth of the bad boy encourages women to overlook the bad in boys, despite how they mistreat them and give them the benefit of the doubt. Even in the face of overwhelming evidence they don't have their best interests at heart. Women believe that if they could just make them see the pain they're inflicting, they'd change. Nope. They're never sorry, you can't appeal to someone's conscience when they don't have one. The reality is, "bad boys" are just bad people.

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

 

 

擁抱與生俱來的纖細柔軟,傳遞強而有力的意識形態

Sophie King 刻意選擇了一件極為女性化的復古蕾絲馬甲來書寫這一段文字,是為了表達出女性在自己柔軟又纖細的外表之下,還是能強而有力地傳達自己的意識形態。Sophie King 的女權主張,並不存在於「燒掉馬甲」這種較為極端的身體解放行為之中,反之,她以獨到眼光欣賞這些專屬於女性的歷史印記,並以擁抱女性身軀的美好為基石,宣示出更帶有反思自省意味的觀點。

 

「妳的初戀,應該要是妳自己。」

 

「安息吧。那些所有我曾經憧憬的有名男孩們,直到我發現他們看待女孩如垃圾。」

Sewing the other day and Pounce keeping me company ♥️

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

 

「我的美學:那些被錯待的女孩,最後都會找到能彼此關愛且尊重的關係。」

It's a good feeling.

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

 

「別再教導女孩如何避免被性騷擾,也別再告訴男孩性騷擾是錯的。」

性騷擾本來就不該存在,女孩也不該因為被性騷擾而被責怪「沒有遵守規則以保護自己」。

Stop teaching girls how to protect themselves from sexual assault. (The other side says "And start teaching boys sexual assault is wrong".) Society warns girls there's "rules" to follow to protect themselves from getting sexually assaulted. If it happens, they're told it's their fault for failing to follow "the rules". This is wrong as it implies they are partly (if not entirely) to blame, which isn't the truth. Also for those who think I'm telling girls not to literally defend themselves in case of an attack – that's not what I mean. I'm directing this at those who put the onus on girls to prevent sexual assault by "protecting" themselves. Teaching girls how to protect themselves from getting sexually assaulted, placing the responsibility on them, sends the message to those that do get sexually assaulted, that they didn't try hard enough to protect themselves, are irresponsible and that it's their fault it happened… which is victim blaming. Can you imagine being told you might not have got sexually assaulted if you had learnt self defence? That's rape culture. This is about taking responsibility and focus off the victim and turning it around on the perpetrator.

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

 

「可笑的事,男人說女人瘋狂的狀況,有 99% 是因為女人要他們改掉糟糕行為。」

New embroidery.

A post shared by Sophie King (@kingsophiesworld) on

 

Cover via : kingsophiesworld

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