時尚的金句,不該只是 “Orange Is the New Black” 這類的話,因為時尚包容的,不只是服裝本身,VOGUE 幫我們整理出 2015 年,各大設計師所發表的金句,你會發現,這些設計師們關心、在意的,不只是衣服好不好看、銷售量好不好,他們的內心是細膩又豐富。
Raf Simons
“I wanted to do something, which is a little more pure than what we usually do. I think I feel like that because of what I think was happening to the fashion world in general. Things go to a peak of overexposure and over-decorated and seen on the Internet and clicked away in a split second, and things are so instant and so fast, and they’re pushed away and next and pushed away and next, and I think I’ve been trying to build up something that was going to be a strong identity again.”
時尚的世界裡,曝光過度、裝飾過度,一切快速的在網路上發生,這個不喜歡,只需要馬上再點擊下一個,而我想做更單純的事。
Dries Van Noten
“We put so much energy and time in all the small details, like the brooches here, and the cuff links there, and all these elements, so sometimes you lose so much in a fashion show that if you have the possibility to see them from close by, that’s a nice way to end the show, I think.”
我們投入了大量的心力在細節之上,像是胸針、袖釦,如果你有機會近距離看到這些衣服你會發現這些細節是快速閃過的伸展台上所無法展現的。
Karl Lagerfeld
“Personally, I don’t have to analyze what I’m doing. I’m not a marketing person. I just do what goes through my mind. . . . It’s always interesting that people see something I hadn’t seen myself or I had seen differently.”
就個人而言,我不需要去解解析我做了什麼,因我並不是一個行銷人,我只是做腦海裡浮現的…有趣的是,人們會看到的東西我從未看到的,以及和我不同的面向。
Peter Copping
“Oscar knew that whatever I did, it would be with a real respect for the house, and I like a sophisticated woman, I like femininity, all those things that were important for Oscar. So even if it’s an element of my own aesthetics creeping in, I think it still feels right for the house.”
我喜歡成熟的女人味,就算是我自己的個人美學滲入,我的任何決定,都是以尊重品牌 (Oscar de la Renta) 精神為出發點。
Rick Owens
“I just kind of thought, I’ll drape figures with other figures. . . . I thought, It can come off a little bit bondage-y, which is not what I want it to look like. It’s supposed to be about unity and it’s supposed to be childhood, childbearing. I’m thinking about supporting families, the resilience of women in the face of adversity and grace under pressure. . . . What I see is this nurturing quality in women that I think is a little more developed in women than in men maybe.”
我們從家庭、童年、生育這些最基本的地方做起,我想幫助在壓力和逆境下的女人,你會發現,她們應變的優雅比起男人更強大。
Alber Elbaz
“It’s a world of technology and a world of tradition and I think that only when they’re both emerging and touching we will be living in harmony.”
這是個高科技和傳統融合的世界,唯有兩者都接觸,才能生活的和諧。
Kanye West
“I can say that what I’m doing is getting closer to what I’m dreaming about. . . . I want to demonstrate that I can learn and follow the rules of fashion so that I can work with amazing people. I want to work with the highest-level people in fashion.”
我想證明,我可以學習和追隨時尚的規則,我想和時尚圈裡的佼佼者一起工作,而我現在可以說,我越來越接近我的夢想。
Michael Kors
“Movement is it. I never understand when people say, ‘Oh that’s really beautiful,’ and she’s standing totally still. When we fit a collection, it’s all about: How does it sit? How does it walk? Because those are the clothes that you grab for in real life.”
美應該是流動的,當我們準備一個系列時,總是在想,穿這些衣服好坐嗎?好走嗎?畢竟服裝是應該生存在真實世界裡的。
Riccardo Tisci
“The influence was like five different religions because in days like this you have to just think future and positivity. We all are the same. Love is for everybody, and love doesn’t have a religion. Love is love, and we are all on the same platform and we are all the same.”
在現在這樣的日子裡,我們都該積極的想想未來,人是平等的,愛是對於每個人的,它不是一種宗教,愛就是愛,我們都是一樣的。
Laura Mulleavy
“Once you feel creative, we’re the type of people that can’t stop that. I felt like the emotion I was feeling came out in the show.”
我們就是那種,一旦感受到創意,就停不下來的人。
Photo:WWD、TRUNK ARCHIVE、Fashion Time、hnhh、1GRANARY、J.CARMAN、MARIE CLAIRE、Max Chalong、The Talks、VOGUE、Tokokaelo
Source:VOGUE