螢光筆般的黃色和紫紅色螢幕在眼前閃閃發亮,讓 Dior 2024春夏大秀的秀場宛如置身電視機,被四面八方的搶眼訊息轟炸,而大大的 “NOT HER” 字樣就這麽清晰烙印在腦海中。
創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 從對「現在」的意義深度反思後,將其解讀視為是「過去」與「未來」的並存,進而創作出如夢似幻的時裝系列;此外,她也邀請藝術家 Elena Bellantoni 為本季大秀構思全新企劃,使用一系列攝影拼貼出影片裝置藝術,刻意強調身體和語言的並列,為作品增添表演性質。
Dior 2024 春夏服裝系列
#1
專為秀場打造的巨型裝置藝術作品
義大利藝術家 Elena Bellantoni 專為本季 Dior 大秀設計了一個巨型的錄像裝置作品《NOT HER》,由數個7公尺高的LED銀幕組成,利用影片動畫中的圖像和文本排序,表達我們不斷遭受媒體洗腦之處境以及從 1940 年代開始,這些媒體所一再傳遞的性別歧視的想像。
《NOT HER》本身就是一個意象,是對刻板印象的回應,因為那不是她。而對於每一句性別歧視的標語,這位平面模特兒急切而重複的回答永遠是:「NOT HER。」
Elena Bellantoni 自 2015 年開始蒐羅性別歧視廣告素材,將 1940 年代的復古風格揉合當代美學表現方式,創作24幅全新廣告,以照片搭配標語,每個組合都「畫中有話」,用語言回應她所創作的圖像,而這些廣告的主角都由藝術家本人扮演,每張圖片都運用她精心製作的場景,讓她沉浸在其他女性的處境和身體中,充分傳達每幅廣告論述的主題。
本次作品中使用超過 300 張 Elena Bellantoni 的收藏,她將這些「令人不悅」的素材分門別類:對女性「完美嬌妻」的期待,到1960年代用鏡頭上下打量女性的平面廣告;從扮演花瓶的「洋娃娃」,到1970年代初嘗解放,實際上卻仍難逃物化女性思維的圖像;再到1980年代更為明目張膽的性別歧視的肢體和語言,和2000年代的重回意淫女性的老路。
Elena Bellantoni 寫道:「我的立場就是『NOT HER』,這句話貫穿我所有的作品和裝置、圖像和書寫。『NOT HER』本身就是一個意象,是對主流刻板印象的回應:It’s not her, she’s no longer all that(那不是她,她已經不是那樣了)。」
《NOT HER》是藝術家在推翻刻板印象,創造新典範方面的努力;就此而言,正如哲學家和社會學家 Marshall McLuhan 的理論:使用的媒介就是訊息本身*。
*引用1964年的論文Understanding Media: The Extensions of Man
#2
身體與衣著的關係是並存並進的
在此信念驅使下,Maria Grazia Chiuri 深信時尚對當今女性體現價值與展現獨特差異有著更為重大的責任,對於各種詮釋、演繹方式採取開放態度,也對敢勇於挑戰男性主導的世界,並展現獨立自主、挑戰體制的「叛逆」女性深感興趣。
這樣的對象羅織了跨越時代的「女巫」,她們是母系神祇知識的守護者、亦是植物科學的傳承者,對自然界中的時序懷抱敬意。
Maria Grazia Chiuri 為 Dior 2024春夏系列創作了洋溢中世紀風格與建築般的線條,同時有巧藉男裝精神製作的夾克,所應用的布料則見證了物質性、對時空的記憶、及義大利藝術家 Alberto Burri 作品的深度理解,以撕、裂、與燃燒等元素建構成服裝作品上的展演,並包含粉灰、洋甘菊、以及如愛情靈藥的淡粉色為主要色系。
而深具 Dior 象徵性的 Mille-fleurs 圖騰則以深色系登場,花朵成為反白X光圖樣,圖樣組成元素則有不同的月相、預示著不同季節的太陽、藥草、奇幻動物等,也穿插於蕾絲、刺繡之中。
此外,針織衫在本季亦扮演重要角色,衣料順著身體曲線輕撫刻畫出身形,具包覆性卻又不過於束縛,性感而溫暖。當中一件泛著金屬光感的毛衣作品,無比輕盈感如繫肩短洋裝般流動,更喚回了「身體與衣著的關係是橫跨時代的並存並進」的思維,而非時來興起的發想,或往日情懷般的惆悵。
#3
對這一切不合理說:「不!」
從服裝到裝置作品,本季 Dior 的核心主題便是女性的身體以及女體的商品化和物化,它要打破長久以來禁錮女性身體的語義框架,我們已經不太會對這些圖像感到驚訝,我們對這些意象習以為常,因為他們早已內化成為我們所生活的基本體制的一部分。
Elena Bellantoni 的立場很明確——拒絕物化女性身體的機制,拒絕利用物化來控制女性的機制,拒絕規範身體界線和關係的權力工具;對這一切都說「不」,用肢體說故事;而 Maria Grazia Chiuri 則用服裝繼續探討女性氣質與女權主義間的關係,同時回應主流對女性的刻板印象: 「It’s not her, she’s no longer all that 」
>>> 完整系列:
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/8da4305f8e32663cd842e9b2f9afe7a6.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a61063335b1f7929738d278b09fa5278.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/7cf9b6ba065b91eff3764a6683ba9a68.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/b7aae27322b0a74b9134f9d741f81324.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/e8dc7787f4e39f163c57f5ea44d19608.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/f53fdd31509bc039c9e248de930e0a2a.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/cfaf61e7edfa6a7cb854b2b761399297.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/b82d9533e484d5871fb1ffd761efc9ca.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/e0da572dfa8e4c8d644286838cc4db53.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/d7290c0ac6f88f98b731974aa463b997.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/5acd0c33047713dc6a18759939792c35.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/bfe54386a20fa15ef8171b26e8cce964.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/52daa13b54e847b712621bbbe66cc124.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/f68517dd80d7300394c24efb173ba0ab.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/cd1e03ed248435e46340e4568747a1a6.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/460e9f95c01695e685dff8a83b07fdc2.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/57d30e0a3905f09e28d750a4c5e7a410.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/0bdb3a3fe8f1e6c7fe1fed286bae6e73.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/ae88ebfa4c62a7b92208a80548c3919e.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/d8ca1542a069c79784b08246bf9442fc.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/74350477593cada6bc7558e436dff77f.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/9cd22ec8fac166f8d5b159e1cfc3e392.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/7962c685dc2570d1304b4e459af0cdb2.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/604f784427d23ed39dcd6f521f490ade.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/f25c597dcb88d318bace38f7686623c6.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/3d46a97e6ef38c1ed81f3225a9c4e4f7.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/019b76dca56ff7cda6bfc40767dad332.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fb2c75b205afbed6f1f581b6cc40c264.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/ea32a780769e9d903c4129561f95e418.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/004b8dd0d5128b4c2d40903c8beccc83.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/2a69505fc32aaab1511c0dc6e52a8286.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/5db0ccb1b4496bd43ee73470d94fa0fd.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/673ba8e2b39f51a55124415ab7c114c6.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/1d5240e1a60e38391234d339ed8733be.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa4db07b19d9b2cfe5c1fe6b58649ea8.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/cc1ef9e49d093aea1afbaa5165721ac4.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/01c4691c28fad54f07953382e625b90f.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/483cf9df4af086aeff73a9b96c61423c.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/3386a14d3732bd36786ed976cb0d28f6.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/4363b9258c5d87d614e8148ff9c3ad3d.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/1ff53b9146d8dc941a40539330e2595b.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/5be5e2a9c1f8951cea8857525b2f65d6.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/b5d052c629d270088f1b27abc2efd689.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/dc9a5a98e3a02869fc288193931e71c7.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/4f209b24036d63ca43cb8c5372dc769c.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/2ce1c424a902b817bfb23791d67d58df.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/316e5ec1e48d51f2d7b77bac50353cc5.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/6a1de81fa31c22ef883e481fbf965969.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/9877ca0b2f2cbc65a06a2549121c0bce.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/d290381cd3211d84aa249c05c29fd04e.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fbd92484ba2c3d75c8289a54a1368eda.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/15cf0c71d63e437139a3135b6d590765.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/83c1a27e23f154fba33ee5b2e7d06e31.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/8bdcfd1e81cf2a26bbe8b7f849c4ccc4.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/300ede3906d87f9655dbcf6e44e2d3dd.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/ba3ff8e79382512c5aedd10825f0a17e.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/4b4889713a44abad99b038ca56f2babb.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/846eef8aabea11f43543b849b34f1543.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/14bfeea1ab9bab4cc92bc8f9a2be18e2.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/4ba7ac02684f885c710ba8de3661da37.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/e69534c1ae420ed1565b685dc7419769.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/325147bf42aed5b0d51f0edbd9386af0.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/5b81b622f1c6dd5f11fad9c03e91c0be.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/6a2a90710294f6487d235be0ca4052a9.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/c3ddd3d16bb4f993a71111b157d700d3.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/ff1207bc7d4965fc539e70c451dfa9b4.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/08b1758a7405ce16f46b51b9d0fc88af.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/36eec62e4ccca21b10ef260322562816.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/6e845c519afb0dd04dffca2481f19759.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/99b4c878a02695701cca5e705db43d70.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/be7964e4d5ef7883feaf833a51b8bd5b.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/bebb76449b78518ee94e40488240b787.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/900db627867e877065ebffd57938b2ba.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/1ef7b6a639662d078dba683f88722f60.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/13d540345b48039d8281b50569b53ef3.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/03214331e85f90bad890a48347dcfb18.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/2d2bf3e869c10cde10d2f32a7a78da9f.jpg)
![](https://femin.adayimg.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/36f53483100de68326bcac1fa5e048cb.jpg)
Read More
>>> Jisoo、Anya Taylor-Joy 大走酷黑風,Rosé 以俐落褲裝現身,巴黎時裝週上的名人造型
>>> 2024 春夏系列:當義大利遇上加勒比海,FERRAGAMO 帶來輕鬆寫意的極簡衣櫥
>>> 2024 春夏服裝系列:貫徹女性先鋒思維,Saint Laurent 跨越性別藩籬的淬煉之美
Photo:Dior