Fashion

一場如夢似幻的冒險旅程：《Christian Dior：夢之設計師》上海特展登場

若你也對上回介紹到的《Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams》特展紀錄片難以忘懷，那麼你絕不會想錯過 Dior 最新於上海開幕的《Christian Dior：夢之設計師》特展。

繼在巴黎裝飾藝術博物館（Musée des Arts Décoratifs）博物館與倫敦維多利亞和阿爾伯特博物館（V&A Museum）成功展出後，今年移師至上海 West Bund 西岸藝術中心的龍美術館展出，將超過70年的輝煌與熱忱淋漓呈現在大眾眼前。

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Following its record-breaking residencies at @MADParis in Paris and @VAMuseum London, the magnificent 'Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams' retrospective comes to life anew at the Long Museum West Bund in Shanghai, from July 28 to October 4, 2020. Curated by Oriole Cullen, it features more than 250 haute couture dresses, as well as works by prestigious Chinese artists, celebrating the bonds that have united Dior and China since 1947. More than seventy years of heritage and creativity – from Monsieur Dior to his successors, from Yves Saint Laurent through to @MariaGraziaChiuri today – are captured in an awe-inspiring scenographic narrative that opens with a reconstituted 30 Avenue Montaigne and thematically tells the House's story through some of its most unforgettable designs, along with archival documents, photographs, sketches, and emblematic perfumes, from 'Miss Dior' to 'J’adore'. #DiorDesignerofDreams © Photo by Dirk Weiblen

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Take a detailed look at the just-opened 'Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams' retrospective in Shanghai. With a host of dresses that have never been publicly exhibited before, the spectacular show expands upon its previous iterations in Paris and London, featuring a focus on how the sartorial history and legacy of Chinese textiles have influenced both Monsieur Dior and his successors, and also presenting dresses worn by Chinese #StarsinDior. Curator Oriole Cullen and scenographer Nathalie Crinière explain their creative solutions to overcoming the difficulties the no-travel restrictions imposed, while a number of guests at the exclusive preview enthusiastically share their thoughts. The exhibition runs until October 4, 2020, at Long Museum West Bund, Shanghai. #DiorDesignerofDreams © Numéro 219, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2019, Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri in collaboration with Penny Slinger.

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《Christian Dior：夢之設計師》特展

本次特展邀請 V&A Museum 現代織品與服裝館（Modern Textiles and Fashion）館長、同時也是知名策展人的 Oriole Cullen 來規劃，以嶄新的場景敘事概念述說品牌的傳奇故事。踏入展場，印入眼簾的是完美移植的陳設、令人沉浸的氛圍、空氣中不可言喻的魔力，就猶如走進 Dior 位於巴黎蒙田大道 30 號的精品店中。

其中的展品包括超過 275 套高級訂製服、時尚插畫大師 René Gruau 與 Christian Bérard 的畫作、以及知名中國藝術家像是高偉剛、梁遠葦、林天苗等人的作品和裝置藝術，可說是精采絕倫。

展覽依據 Dior 歷年來的經典作品分成 14 個主題場景——包括 New Look 新風貌標誌性的 Bar Jacket；另一展區則特別對啟發 Dior 品牌創作的靈感來源致敬，例如詩意盎然的花園、華麗的凡爾賽宮、晚宴禮服等；也有各時期身著 Dior 服裝名媛與公主的影像紀錄；色彩也是 Dior 美學不可或缺的一部分，在 Colorama 展區中，以藍、黃、紅、粉等色調打造有強烈視覺感的單色系展示櫃，擺放縮小版的微型作品。

展上也有多幅出自攝影大師 Willy Maywald、William Klein、Henry Clarke、Annie Leibovitz、 Sarah Moon、Steven Meisel、馮海與張家誠等人的作品，以影像名家視角捕捉 Dior 深厚底蘊。對比 John Galliano 華麗的高級訂製服作品與 Maria Grazia Chiuri 的現代創作，平面影像中捕捉的風華與歷史，自成一格形成對 Dior 的另類詮釋，實體與照片中的服裝之間宛如開啟一場對話。

《Christian Dior：夢之設計師》上海特展特輯套書

本次特展也將發行一套專屬特輯，向 Dior 無窮盡的創意致敬。特輯一套三冊，分別是《1947-2020 Dior Looks》——主要收錄 Christian Dior 與歷屆設計師們創作出的非凡佳作，依照展覽場景主題編輯，內容猶如一篇童話史詩，探索影響 Dior 品牌的靈感啟發。

另外還有由中國攝影師郎港澳掌鏡的《Photographic Essay on Dior by Gangao Lang》，曾於 2019 年在 Rencontres d’Arle 攝影節中贏得 Dior 新興攝影師攝影獎。她的作品受現代主義影響，卻又猶如繪畫般彰顯女性氣息，接下這項攝影任務後，郎港澳鍛鍊自己的目光，定睛在每一套訂製服的本質與架構，以自己的視角捕捉 Dior 歷任設計師作品的精采。

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Winner of the 2019 Dior Photography Award for Young Talents, Gangao Lang photographed haute couture designs from 1947 to the present day, including the legendary 'Bar' suit from Monsieur Dior's revolutionary very first collection, for the 'Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams' retrospective in Shanghai, always remaining mindful of honoring each creator's intent. #DiorDesignerofDreams © Numéro 219, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2019, Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri in collaboration with Penny Slinger.

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最後是文字集錦《Writings on Dior》，在策展人 Oriole Cullen 領軍下，收錄具影響力之藝文時尚名人作品，包括 Nadia Albertin、Catherine Zewitoun、Jerry Stafford、楊憶非、洪晃與 Justine Picardie。每一篇文章以不同角度講述 Dior 無價的文化意涵。透過閱讀，讀者將在字裡行間中，逐漸被引導踏入 Dior 的夢幻境界，探見這場旅程的精髓。